By John Chenier
Running a string of successful restaurants that includes Zak’s Diner, Zak’s Cantina, The Grand, and the Metropolitain in and around ByWard as well as in other points west such as Elgin Street, Kanata and Carleton Place would be enough for most people. But for John Borsten and his wife, Sofia, there was still something missing: a place to call their own.
When the owners of the Fish Market restaurant decided to close for good due to the COVID lockdown, the owners of 54 York Street faced a decision: find a new tenant or sell the building. The building at 54 York Street had been owned by the Weiner family for nearly 100 years. When they decided to sell, John and his two partners saw the opportunity to own a building in the Market.
The Fish Market had been a success there for 41 years, so there was no doubt about the location. And, as Sofia said, “The opportunity to buy a property like this in the ByWard Market seldom comes along. The last time 54 York had been sold was 98 years ago.” So they went out and bought it.
At first the plan was to bring the building up to modern standards and rent it out to an upscale chain seeking to expand into this prime location. John approached several western chains and other potential clients with the prospect of opening in the Market. But COVID and other things had cooled the desire to expand. John was told to come back to them in a few years and they might be interested. His answer was that the place wouldn’t be available then.
With no suitable tenants available, if there was to be a restaurant there, they would have to create it themselves. Those who remember the Fish Market will recall that the restaurant offered three different dining experiences in the building. There was a wine bar, Vines (later Vineyards), in the cellar; The Fish Market restaurant offering family dining on the main floor; and the slightly more upmarket Coasters Grill on the second floor.
If it worked for the Fish Market, why break the mold? Within a few months, 54 York will offer different dining experiences on each floor, with an additional choice on a rooftop patio.
Apothecary, which takes over where Vines left off, is already open. The basement location has been spruced up a bit, but those who liked the ambiance of Vines will feel right at home. But, recognizing that times have changed, where the previous focus was on wine, Apothecary’s theme is mixology.
Sofia explains that the name comes from the days of prohibition. Back then, the only way to obtain alcohol legally was for “treatment” of a medical condition. The drug store or apothecary would mix all sorts of alcohol-laden remedies for whatever ailed you.
To go along with the theme, Sofia has discovered a bricked-in doorway in a massive stone wall connecting to another room which, in future, she hopes to convert to the entrance to a “secret” Speakeasy.
If all stays on schedule, the restaurant on the main floor, Starling, will open in mid-November for casual dining. This will have a menu geared to all ages. On the second floor, the menu, décor and seating are aimed at the younger, cinq à sept type. The menu will offer dishes with an international flair to match its name, York-on-William or YOW, the acronym for the Ottawa airport. The target for opening YOW is also mid-November.
If everything comes together in time and the weather cooperates, the newest addition to 54 York, The Rooftop, may be offering drinks and light snacks to complement the great view of the Market before the end of September.
The Rooftop, YOW and the Apothecary will also serve as places where people can enjoy a pre-dinner aperitif while waiting for a table in Starling, or an after-dinner digestif to round out the evening.
Renovations to bring this concept to life started in January. As you might expect with a building that has served many purposes since it was built more than 150 years ago, there were some surprises and discoveries along the way. Large stable doors were found inside what was once an exterior wall on the main floor. Disguising old coal chutes and bricked-in doorways in the cellar walls presented some decorating challenges.
While the structure remains sound, the whole building had to be rewired, ventilation and plumbing had to be updated, and all new kitchen equipment will need to be installed. Currently, wooden beams and floor joists of a size not seen in decades are visible. Unfortunately, modern-day fire codes will not allow many of these fine specimens to remain exposed. It is possible that some of the original walls covered with ornamental tiles made of tin will be visible. And of course, there are stone walls practically everywhere you look.
The exterior of the building has a new coat of paint and one new sign, Apothecary, designed by Sofia. However, the memories of 54 York still linger on. Sofia says the three questions most often asked of the hostesses are:
Is this the Old Fish Market?
Did you know this used to be the Old Fish Market?
Do you still sell fish?
It may take a while before people stop saying “Let’s meet at the new place where The Fish Market used to be.” But as long as they have the location right, the Borstens will take it from there.